View Full Version : Broadhead question :)
08-22-2011, 04:23 PM
So as many of you saw, I just got my first ever antelope with my bow. I've taken multiple deer with my bow and now I have a question. I have never been able to "punch through" so to speak. I have seen lots of hunting shows where the arrow goes through the animal but I have never been able to do that. I guess with my upcoming bowhuntin elk trip I am worried about this. What would be the cause of this? Someone said the it's probably my broadhead but I have tried multiple broadheads with no luck. Would it be my draw length or anything like that? Thanks everyone! :)
I'm fairly new to the sport as well but as far as I know you need to find the best kinetic energy your set up will provide. This would be accomplished with a combination of arrow weigh and speed. A lighter arrow requires more speed to reach the same amount of energy as a heavier arrow at a slower speed. Not knowing what set up you have it would be hard to say what the best way to go is (Lighter faster or slower heavier). Someone with a lot more experience will probably be able to help more than I can.
08-22-2011, 04:39 PM
Not a big deal if you do not get a arrow pass Most of the time the arrow (broadhead) does more damage while staying in the animal.
What grain of broadhead do you use?
Mechanical, or fixed broadhead?
My son shoots 38 lbs with a 25 inch arrow, and a 100 gr cut on contact broadhead. His arrow went completly through an antelope at 27 yards this week.
It sounds like with multiple deer, and now a speedgoat down, you shouldn't be worring about knocking down an elk. Just keep hitting them in the sweet spot!
08-22-2011, 04:42 PM
I use a 100 grain mechanical broadhead.. My arrow length is 25" and my draw weight is 61 lbs. The broadhead that I used on my speed goat did not want to come out. I had to actually cut it out.. Lol
08-22-2011, 05:00 PM
Your set up is fine! Sometimes the arrows just want to stay in:)
How much do your arrows weigh? I haven't shot an elk with my bow yet. All of the people with more archery knowledge than me recommend fixed blades for elk.
08-22-2011, 05:55 PM
I have Easton axxis carbon 500 arrows
08-22-2011, 06:24 PM
The only thing that may help your pass throughs could be a cut on contact short profile broadhead with a 1 1/8th cut diameter and a slightly heavier arrow i.e. a camo wrapped arrow... This could add an additional 1 - 1.7 GPI. The extra 25 to 30 grains and smaller head should reduce friction and give you the exit hole you're after... Your set up sounds fine, however, lot's of folks including myself like an exit so we don't have to worry about it arrow stopping up the blood trail and also pooling up in the cavity... In addition, if your hit is high, the exit can assist in tracking as the lower exit point can give you a blood trail to follow. All my opinion but it could help :) Happy hunting!
08-22-2011, 09:25 PM
Hmmm..I'll get with you on this one..Lots of good points mentioned.
08-22-2011, 09:44 PM
Graylight is spot on. A bit heavier arrow with your current setup or a cut on contact head, ie Magnus Stinger, would definitely aid you in getting more penetration. Mechanical heads require a good amount of energy behind them and a light arrow hinders this.
08-22-2011, 10:02 PM
Make sure your bow is properly tuned. If you don't have centershot and your arrows are a little tail left, right, high, low this will not allow a pass through.
If you have shot multiple animals and no pass through go back to the basics and make sure your bow is tuned properly. Unless you are hitting major bones like shoulder blade or spine the only reason I can see for not having pass throughs on deer is a untuned bow. Alot of people shoot mechnicals because they don't know how to tune their bow properly. no offense.
I would definitely switch to a COC head as mentioned above. Arrow weight is fine for deer. For elk I would switch to alot heavier arrow like FMJ and be shooting Atleast 425 grain total arrow weight. Good luck
08-22-2011, 10:05 PM
Honestly...with all do respect. I dont think it has anything to do with your arrow..I think it has everything to do with your bow not being properly tuned. I say this because I used to be the guy who would take my bow to the "Bow tech"...Well after a couple bad expierences with the bowtech who really didnt know his head from his bleep. I took it upon myself to learn everything possible about a bow and arrow. That said I still have alot to learn. However, I do know quite a little about proper bow tunig and proper arrow tuning. They are both a science in themselves. Your arrow may be the perfect set-up but if your rest is even 1/16 to far to the left or right it can make your arrow fly sideways out of the bow. granted your fletchings will straight'n it but how much KE did you lose in the process? Thats just one very small aspect of a very very big picture.
08-22-2011, 10:06 PM
Ohh..forgot to mention that in my opinion a complete pass through is always better than not..The damage is done and you get twice the blood trail.
08-22-2011, 10:15 PM
Thanks everyone :)
08-23-2011, 10:05 AM
Jen, I have a question that may also really save your bacon on your elk hunt. Are you tucking your shots tight into the armpit of the antelope and deer? If you are, thats a great spot on these animals and a good reason you may not be getting a pass through.(not to undermine the bow tuning tips as those are spot on as well). If you tuck you shots in tight, you hit LOTS more bone and tendons on the way in. Mechanicals tend to fold up and hang up on bone and tendon.
This is also very dangerous to shoot tight on an elk. They have HUGE shoulder blades and they are thick. If you hit it, you may not ever see the elk again and not kill it either. I find that if I put a shot spot on the heart, my arrows can catch. If I go for a double lung shot, about 4 inches back of the shoulder muscles, the arrows do their work and pass through.
As mentioned above, I recommend fixed blade over mechanical any day for any animal. There are lots of options to go for. Cut on Contact styles have always worked for me.
08-23-2011, 02:20 PM
We all have our own opinions and here is mine. As has already been mentioned, a properly tuned bow is a must. Once you have that, the fun begins. I know people have killed a lot of animals with expandable broadheads, however, my preference is still a cut on contact head. I personally use the G5 Montec. There are many quality broadheads on the market, this one is just my preference. I also like to shoot a heavier arrow. I would rather sacrafice a little speed and have a quiet bow and deep penetrating arrow. Look back a few issues of EBJ. Darin Cooper wrote a piece on KE and the importance of a heavy arrow for your bow hunting rig. I can't do the article justice by attempting to paraphrase and I don't recall which issue the article appeared in. I'm sure if you contacted the Eastman's Gang that could tell you. I found the article very informative and it has changed the way I tweak my bow. I hope I have been of some help. Good luck!
08-23-2011, 05:44 PM
wolftalon- yes, I am definitely tucking my shots real tight in the armpit. I think also after reading everyone's thoughts, I may switch to a different fixed blade broadhead. Thanks so much!
rpeebles- I will definitely have to check into that article. Thank you, you were definitely a lot of help!!
08-24-2011, 10:42 PM
Jen I have found that I get a lot more pass through shots with a cut on contact head ( I shoot a Magnus Stinger) But I think as long as you hit them in the sweet spot you will be fine.
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