Proof that broadhead tunning works.

Firearrow - What part of the state are you in, if your near Sacto let me know via PM and maybe we can hook up and you can help me?

Both of them (cousin and uncle) are more of the indoor/outdoor FP shooters. They do hunt with their bows (hunting bows) and we are not at the liberty to hunt private lands nor ground blinds. They don't archery hunt as much as I do and have done in the past years. I guess you can only check and re-check your equipment soo much before you just say well....maybe it cannot be done. Again if you are able to get it done with your equipment than that is great. I am just saying that over and over I read of people posting that it can be done and for those beginners (like I once was) think they can go and do it and realize that maybe it just can't be done to perfection.

I don't and would not shoot at an animal at 70 or 80 yards, however being able to make this shots will make (at least for me) that shorter shots chip shots.

I live in Rancho Cordova, and we can meet at El Dorado Hills, I am a memeber there, or Maya, not a member there. Or, all we need is 50 yards where we can shoot. I will bring a portable bow press, and tools. Send me a PM of your set up so I know what ya got.

Also, I agree with your last statement.

Or Yolo, if yo live out that way.

Firearrow has some good info to offer but I would disagree that FPS, KE, GPI, and FOC dont really matter. They are all important factors in your overall arrow. To little FOC and your arrow is slower to stabilize. To much and it drops more rapidly. Yuor KE has everything to do with what kind of knockdown power your arrow will have and how much penetration. Eastmans have had a couple good articles in past EBJ regarding all of the above. There is always going to be debate about speed, KE....etc. There is so much to learn and there are so many variables that will effect a properly tuned bow and great arrow flight. Its really a matter of how anal you are about your equipment. I'm horrible, but I guess thats why I'm not happy with anything less than next to perfect. JNdeer you may want to change your arrow set-up maybe even try some different arrow rests. Have someone scrutinize your form and your grip. Those are just a couple of many things that can effect arrowflight and tuning. Good luck and let us know how you come out.

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Originally Posted by Firearrow

I live in Rancho Cordova, and we can meet at El Dorado Hills, I am a memeber there, or Maya, not a member there. Or, all we need is 50 yards where we can shoot. I will bring a portable bow press, and tools. Send me a PM of your set up so I know what ya got.

Also, I agree with your last statement.

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I currently shoot a Hoyt Carbon Element 30" 70#. CE Maxima Hunter 350 30", QAD Ultra rest, 100gr heads. El Dorado Bowmans don't allow BH at their range, not sure of the others? I will PM you when I get some time off to see if it would be possible to hook up at any of those locations.

Elkcrazedfrk - You can see my set up above. Everything says I am just fine. The bow was purchased in March and I have already taken it back once to ensure timming and lean was fine (with the dealer I purchased it at) and it was.

Here is what I don't understand. What I don't understand is that you would want to be able to perfrom any of the adjusting methods (paper, walk back, etc) to get things dialed in close enough so that it should almost be perfect for FP and BH. I have done paper with perfect holes at about 8 yards and no luck with my FP and BH being close at all. I went to walk back tunning (for those that don't know what that is. You take your 20 yard pin and shoot either your FP or BH depending on which one you want to tune. Walk back to 30, but aim with your 20 yard pin at the same point you aimed at 20 yards. Repeat as far back as you can for more precise tunning. You want the arrows to make a line straight down from where your 20 yard arrow hits. If the line is slanted you move the rest 1/16 and inch towards the horizontal line comeing down from the 20 yard arrow. Don't worry about where the POI is on the arrows as once you get a good line than you move your sight to get your arrows hitting that target you are aiming at. I have found you will get different results doing this if you shoot FP or BH) and got all arrows going back to 50 yards with my BH to be within 1" of the line. My FP hit about 3"-4" to the left at 20 and yes I played with adjusting my rest to get them to hit together, but they never do. So I went back to the walk back tune with the bH and this is where I am at now shooting fine out to 70.

I bring a BH target to shoot at. No one has give me any problems. Where you see the movement in your BH to match the field points is with poundage on your bow. This will move the BH left to right. The up and down is your nock point. But don't tell anyone, it is a secret.

Well JNDEER sounds like you have a good grasp on what you need to be doing. I'm at a loss. Maybe firearrow or someone else who can watch you shoot will be of help. Looking at your set-up raises the question of what spined arrow are you shooting and what is your FOC. As said before to light spine or to stiff spine as well as to little or to much FOC will defenately play a big factor in POI. There is just no getting around that. Also I dont know if there is any truth to it but have heard more than once that they are having issues with the carbon element and risor flex..If that is the case,it will make all sorts of havoc for a guy.. You may try archerytalk.com Lot of good info there and folks that have all sorts of insight. If I had to guess I would say its something to do with your arrow set-up.Be patient, you will get it figured out.

I agree with Firearrow and Elkcrazedfrk, it does take time and patience to get your set up tuned to your broadheads. I experienced the same problems you seem to be having earlier this year. Some adjustment to my grip and also a kisser button locke in my shooting form and soon my montecs were tearing vanes off of my field points at 40 yards. Also there are some good BH tuning videos on youtube to view. Hope this helps.

I agree with all of the above advise you have been given. One thing I would check into (and has been mentioned previously) check your arrows. What I mean by that, is some pro shops that cut arrows and glue inserts in, don't care if they are true. If I can get a arrow to paper tune through my bow with a field point, and broadheads don't hit where my field points do, I have always checked my arrow. If the front and back are not square, your arrow is not going to come off as straight as it needs to for a broadhead. I now square the front and back up before gluing inserts in. When I do glue inserts in, I screw a broadhead on, apply glue and spin test the insert before the glue can set up. Since I have done this, I have not had a problem getting broadheads to hit where my field points do, no matter the head I use (Muzzy, Montec, and even my big two blade Magnus) Hope this helps

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Originally Posted by RUTTIN

I agree with all of the above advise you have been given. One thing I would check into (and has been mentioned previously) check your arrows. What I mean by that, is some pro shops that cut arrows and glue inserts in, don't care if they are true. If I can get a arrow to paper tune through my bow with a field point, and broadheads don't hit where my field points do, I have always checked my arrow. If the front and back are not square, your arrow is not going to come off as straight as it needs to for a broadhead. I now square the front and back up before gluing inserts in. When I do glue inserts in, I screw a broadhead on, apply glue and spin test the insert before the glue can set up. Since I have done this, I have not had a problem getting broadheads to hit where my field points do, no matter the head I use (Muzzy, Montec, and even my big two blade Magnus) Hope this helps

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This is what I used to do when I shot ACC's, and Thunderheads. They flew much better when you take the time to make sure your BH seat square onto your arrows.