tuning problems

[ontarget7]

Ok i need some help from the experts please. I am having a lot of issues tuning my bow. It is a new 2011 carbon element. I had it all set up with a qad drop away rest and spot hog sight. The guys at the bow shop couldn't get it to tune right so they put some twist in the cables and told me it should be good to go. I get it home and sure enough i can tell the arrow is flying sideways. I take it back and tell them, and we shoot it through the paper and it is tearing right and left with no pattern. The guy there tells me this is fine because it is not tearing bad (.5 to 1.5 inches) and he doesn't want to mess with it anymore. So i decide i am done with them and take it home to try to tune myself.

So it is tearing both left and right but no pattern. Even tried each arrow individualy and still no pattern. What should i do to get is shooting strait? Thanks in advance!

Give me a call after 4:30 PM during the week and I will be glad to help you out.

Shane

[ontarget7]

Give me a call after 4:30 PM during the week and I will be glad to help you out.

Shane

Sorry 435-592-0231

[RobinHood]

You guys are right on. These so called pro shops can do more damage than harm. Be vary wary of the 'professional' opinion.

I have a couple suggestions:
1. I have a Hoyt Alphamax, 28.5" draw, 72 lbs. All the arrow charts said I should be shooting 350 arrows, however my arrow flight was inconsistent and the arrows were constantly hitting left. I did some research and found that was a sign of under spine arrows. I went from Beman 340's to Beman 300's a stiffer arrow and it made all the difference in the world. I figured this out using some of the pro arrow selector programs. Not saying this is your problem, but just be aware that the charts may be a little misleading.

2. I have hunted with my bow for 3 years pretty hard. Lots of bumps, bangs, drops, etc. I took it to a local shop and I think he screwed things up even more. So l did as others mentioned and logged onto ArcheryTalk.com and found a well known archrey shop in Wisconsisn to do a full tuneup, cleaning, and new strings for $129. They paper tune everything, run it through the chrono, and make sure the bow is entirely within spec. He is a Hoyt dealer, so he knows his stuff. Give him a look if you get a chance. Some of the best cash I have spent on my bow.
http://scottcustomarchery.com/custom...xe-bow-tuning/

I dont trust the shops around here and dont have the tools to do it myself, so this was my only option. It has proven beneficial and helped me gain confidence in my equipment.

[Grizbacker]

You guys are great thanks for the help. I do not have the money and time to invest in a bowpress and learn to completely tune it myself. I am kind of leaning towards what one of you guys said and sending it to a reputable dealer to do a full tune. Shane, imay still give you a call one evening this week and see if you can help. For those that asked, my arrows are cut to 28 7/8" and I am using 100 grain tips. Im off to try it on the paper again will check back here again tonight.

[Grizbacker]

You guys are right on. These so called pro shops can do more damage than harm. Be vary wary of the 'professional' opinion.

I have a couple suggestions:
1. I have a Hoyt Alphamax, 28.5" draw, 72 lbs. All the arrow charts said I should be shooting 350 arrows, however my arrow flight was inconsistent and the arrows were constantly hitting left. I did some research and found that was a sign of under spine arrows. I went from Beman 340's to Beman 300's a stiffer arrow and it made all the difference in the world. I figured this out using some of the pro arrow selector programs. Not saying this is your problem, but just be aware that the charts may be a little misleading.

2. I have hunted with my bow for 3 years pretty hard. Lots of bumps, bangs, drops, etc. I took it to a local shop and I think he screwed things up even more. So l did as others mentioned and logged onto ArcheryTalk.com and found a well known archrey shop in Wisconsisn to do a full tuneup, cleaning, and new strings for $129. They paper tune everything, run it through the chrono, and make sure the bow is entirely within spec. He is a Hoyt dealer, so he knows his stuff. Give him a look if you get a chance. Some of the best cash I have spent on my bow.
http://scottcustomarchery.com/custom...xe-bow-tuning/

I dont trust the shops around here and dont have the tools to do it myself, so this was my only option. It has proven beneficial and helped me gain confidence in my equipment.

How do you like those new strings? I really like that option, but am not so sure i want new strings. The bow is brand new and there is nothing wrong with the factory ones on it.

[RobinHood]

I change my strings each year, so I am used to new ones.

There are a couple things I like about it:
1) the bow is tuned with those strings on it. So if you need an extra twist or a twist taken out that is done to ensure the bow is shooting properly when it gets to you.

2) and much less important, I choose the colors so I can customize the color of my bow.

It is a good plan if you want to be able to pick up your bow and shoot, knowing it is properly tuned

[ontarget7]

You guys are great thanks for the help. I do not have the money and time to invest in a bowpress and learn to completely tune it myself. I am kind of leaning towards what one of you guys said and sending it to a reputable dealer to do a full tune. Shane, imay still give you a call one evening this week and see if you can help. For those that asked, my arrows are cut to 28 7/8" and I am using 100 grain tips. Im off to try it on the paper again will check back here again tonight.

You would be weak on spine with that set up. When you are weak on spine it is a waste of time to shoot through paper because you will end up moving your rest to compensate for the tears you are getting through paper. When in reality it is the weak spine causing the bad tears. Its not the end of the world and you don't have to be out more money to get it to shoot good. It won't be optimal because of the weak spine but it will do until you can purchase more arrows down the road. Just give me a call and I will give you a few tips and help get you through the frustrations you are going through.

Shane

[cnalder]

I'm with everyone on the "Pro" shop thing. I had similar problems with tuning and they couldn't help me out. I shoot a Bowtech Justice at 70lb w/29" draw. Arrow is cut to 28.5". Started with beman 340s and could never get them to paper tune or shoot well. Broadheads made it even worse. Like Robinhood I eventually went to the beman 300s. Solved all my problems until I had a reputible "Pro" shop in Boise put on a new string. They couldn't get any arrow to paper tune and told me it was my rest and that I was shooting the wrong arrows. Of coarse they wanted me to buy a new rest and arrows from them. Said no thanks I'll work on it. Got home and immediately saw my veins hitting the riser. Simple solution and my FP and BH group together again. Definitely is worth learning to tune you bow as I'm not sure many of the shops know how to do it correctly.

I'd be extremely unhappy if I bought a new Element, given the price, and the shop couldn't get it tuned. Good luck.

[Grizbacker]

You would be weak on spine with that set up. When you are weak on spine it is a waste of time to shoot through paper because you will end up moving your rest to compensate for the tears you are getting through paper. When in reality it is the weak spine causing the bad tears. Its not the end of the world and you don't have to be out more money to get it to shoot good. It won't be optimal because of the weak spine but it will do until you can purchase more arrows down the road. Just give me a call and I will give you a few tips and help get you through the frustrations you are going through.

Shane

Shane,

I'll give you a call tomorrow (thurs) evening if that works for you. Thanks again!

[ontarget7]

Shane,

I'll give you a call tomorrow (thurs) evening if that works for you. Thanks again!

Not a problem