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Thread: dog training

  1. #11
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    Im definately no expert, but have had several black labs that we trained to hunt birds. Not sure about the yelping, every dog has their own attitude. But I would say that will fade fast, as it did with my most recent dog within the first few nights. Ive never trained her to hunt sheds, only pheasants and doves, but I have learned that teaching them obedience is the #1 priority. Once they've learned to mind you, then you can start to teach them how or what to hunt. Good luck with your lab, they want to please, but you have to let them know YOU are in charge from the start or they may never amount to much. The bloodline/natural hunting instinct of your particular dog and amount of time you give them in the field early on will also determine how good of hunting dog they will become. They do best if it's routine for them instead of a rarity to get to go "hunting" whatever it may be.

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  3. #12
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    IT- He probably just needs to be let out to go to the bathroom. Even in a kennel that big, dogs really don't like to go to the bathroom in their kennel. When I crate trained my dog, I kept her in a kennel that wasn't much bigger than her, and let her out twice a night for the first week or so, then only once per night. Once she could hold it all night long, I quit keeping her in the kennel overnight.

    How old is the pup?
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  4. #13
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    11 weeks old. thats a good point, i figures as big as the kennel was it would be fine. ill try that tonight. if i plan on waking up at 3 am to let it out that may feel better than getting woke up at 3am

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    Ive had pups get bladder infections from holding it too long. Makes you feel terrible!
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    also, i keep the watter inside the big kennel with him. bad idea? im going to vet tomorrow to figure out how much i should be feeding it. ive been giving a cup in morn and cup at night.

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    Water is good. Lots of clean water will help get rid of the puppy poops quicker. Regarding food, he's growing like crazy right now, you probably can't over feed him. Some will say its better to limit the food, so they grow a little slower, and therefore grow stronger... When mine was 3-6 months old, I was feeding her 4 cups a day, at 6 months to a year, she at 6 cups a day. At two, she's back down to 4 cups a day, but, she's a very active dog..
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  9. #17
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    Some good info up above. I also used Water Dog to give me a lot of insight and helped with the basics. I also got Richard Wolters video "Water Dog." It is amazing how he teaches dogs to follow hand signals and whistle commands. The video is worth buying just to see that. I would love to incorporate those commands into a shed dog one day. But back to the subject. Use both brown and white antlers for training because if you only use one color then the dog learns to find one color. Use all sizes so that they learn to find little forkies and spikes as well as 4-points and bigger. I've never stopped my dogs from bringing me bones because there are many times that antlers are few and far between and finding bones keeps them excited. A huge added bonus to retrieving bones is that bones many times lead to DEADHEADS and we all love DEADHEADS. You know when youir dog smells a carcass because the head shoots up and they take off at a fast pace making a beeline to thier destination. I can't tell you how many deadheads my Daisy has brought me. For young puppies I cut the tips off of small forkies and I choose antlers that are smooth without eyeguards or little pointy trash around the eyeguards. You don't want the antler to hurt the pup in the beginning. Later when they get a little older then they get every shape and size, color and variation I can think of. When they are good at finding antlers I like to train at night to help them use thier nose more. I hide antlers in grass, puddles, hay stacks, sticking out of my truck exhaust pipes, in the house, in the horse barn, in the flowers etc, etc. Got plenty more to say but not enough time. fatrascal.

  10. #18
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    Here is Daisy bringing me a muley deadhead.

    Here she is with an elk antler.
    Last edited by Fatrascal; 08-02-2013 at 12:01 AM.

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    That's really cool. Great pics. I would really like to train my lab to do the same. I just got my him back from a trainer out of Shelley ID. Worste trainer in the world my dog came back super skinny with scars all over his legs. He was obviously beaten. He tucks his tail and wets all over if you reach for him too quick. I am heart broken with the situation. I hope I can repair the damage done to my lab.

  12. #20
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    Dog training is really not hard, but you need lots of patience and repetition. It is never to early to start them. Obedience is the foundation for everything else. Start with simple one word commands...sit, stay, etc. Remember puppies are like kids, they have a very short attention span and need to be praised for good work. I am dead set against giving dogs food treats when they perform, praise is enough. Also remember a dog can have an off day just like humans can. Don't make training sessions too long and end them all on a positive note. If the dog is having an off day, do something they do well (like sit), then end the session with lots of love.

    Once the obedience is there, then start the field work. I like to use a whistle to get their attention. Use it every time you feed them, they will get the idea fast. To teach hand signals (these and the whistle are the best firld tools you have), I like to use the baseball field method. Lay out a baseball diamond (in your mind) with you (the trainer) always at home plate and the dog always on the pitchers mound. The dog needs to be retrieving a dummy to you by now. Use your left hand and throw the dummy to third base (dog still sitting at pitchers mound), then blow the whistle and tell them fetch while gestering with your hand to where you threw the dummy.Repeat same with other hand to the first base side. For using second base, throw the dummy over their head and tell the to "Get back" while motioning with your hand. You get the idea. Hunting in the field these hand signal/whistle communications with your dog are invaluble.

    I really don't like shock collars. If a dog is that unruly, they probably won't be that good in the field. Usually someone screwed them up sometime and this is what happens.Click image for larger version. 

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    I've trained quite a few dogs and the more you do it the better you get.....sound familiar? Hope this helps some.
    Colorado Cowboy
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