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  1. #1
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    300 WSM reloading issues

    Some of you may have seen some of my posts and know that I prefer the standard calibers 270, 280, and 30-06. However, I got a really good deal on a S/S Winchester 70 in 300 WSM. The first range sessions for accuracy were pitiful and my reloads were hard to chamber. So against my better judgment I went all in on a custom barrel job (Lilja), and stock (McMillan). The finished rifle has been completely accurized and blueprinted by a very competent gunsmith. However, my hand loads are still hard to close the bolt on. Accuracy is there with 180gr accubonds shooting consistent 1/2" groups at 3075 fps (27" Barrel). I went back to the gunsmith and had him check the chamber, its perfect. I have adjusted my dies, changed dies, adjusted bullet seating depth, and the bolt still closes hard on hand loads only factory loads are fine. I have been reloading for 20+ years and have never had this problem on the 31 different calibers (I counted my dies, that's a whole other thread) I have loaded for. What am I doing wrong? any help would be greatly appreciated. If I can't find a solution this rifle is going to find its way to the used rack at the gun shop.

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    I have had the same issue with my 300 rum only some of the time I try to make sure I debur the out side of the neck been thinking about getting the neck run out gauge an try that but not all of them do it an some of my 300 wsm do it to not all the time an it is a new gun as well an will chamer factory load fine

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    Factory loads load fine, they do no shoot as well and they cost three times as much to shoot. This problem is really driving me crazy. I have read online about reloaders shaving a couple of thousandths off of the shell holder or die, but that doesn't seem right to me. If that is the case why would I have the same problem with RCBS, Lyman, and Redding dies and why wouldn't the die companies fix the problem?

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    It has to be something we re doing nt all my load do it I just bolt them an go on maybe someone on here knows what doing wrong

  5. #5
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    I just stumbled across a Brian Pierce article about the WSM's. In the article he covers this same problem, I guess it's common. I will try removing a few thousandths from my die and see if the works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck8541 View Post
    I just stumbled across a Brian Pierce article about the WSM's. In the article he covers this same problem, I guess it's common. I will try removing a few thousandths from my die and see if the works.
    Let me know how it goes

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    How many times have the brass been shot? Are they just neck sized? Or full length sized? May be U just need to bump the shoulder back. I am just neck sizing my 270 wsm. About the third loading. I have to run them through. A reading body die. To bump my shoulders back... Is it possible the new brass just needs the shoulder bumped back????

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    This will be very interesting to see this out come.... Does brand new brass just brass. (Unloaded) Is it hard to chamber????

  9. #9
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    I am assuming the brass you are reloading has been shot thru your rifle. It should have been fire formed to your chamber at that point. The first thing I'd do is check the oal case length after it has been fired in YOUR rifle. There are dimensional tolerances on chamber sizing. Factory loaded ammo must fit all chambers in all rifles, regardless of where they fall within the tolerance band and is generally made to fit minimum sized chambers.

    Is your sizing die a neck sizer or full length? Once I have fired my brass in the rifle I plan on using it in, I only neck size it from that point on. I never add brass that has not been fired in that particular rifle to it's brass supply w/o full length sizing and fire forming. The only thing I do between reloadings is to tumble/clean the brass, check condition for cracks, etc. and check oal case length with dial calipers. You also might want to dimensionally check a piece of fired brass from your rifle. Look especially at brass thickness at the neck. oal neck diameter and case length. What brand dies are you using?

    Are there any bright spots on the fired case that would indicate where the difficulty ie. tightness is occuring?
    I sure wouldn't start modifying dies/shell holder until I made sure that the cases you are trying to load have been thru the procedure I've discussed. I've reloaded for over 60 years and have made my own wildcat brass when no factory brass was available. I reload everything I shoot....rifle, pistol & shotgun, except for rim fire.
    Last edited by Colorado Cowboy; 11-24-2013 at 08:42 AM.
    Colorado Cowboy
    Cowboy Action Shooter; Endowment Life Member-NRA
    The Original Rocket Scientist-Retired
    "My Father always considered a walk in the mountains as the equivalent of church going."
    Aldous Huxley

  10. #10
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    I have tried Winchester, Federal, and Nosler brass, three different dies manufactures (all full length dies) on two different barrels with same same result. I have also read an article by Barnsness where he encountered the same issue. I will not be able to reload for another week or so but I will keep you updated. Cowboy, to answer your question, no brute spots or signs of defoayion from over pressure., yes these cases have been fire formed in my chamber.if removing a little material from the bottom of the die does not work I will order a neck sizing die. If that doesn't work then to the used rack it goes.

 

 

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