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  1. #1
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    Reloading Question

    I wanted to get some feedback about how often you clean your resizing die and what do you use to clean it?
    I reload for my 7mm mag and I use a Redding FL sizing die.
    I clean my brass in corn cobb media and I use the RCBS lube pad.

    I just think that over time, some of the lube gets transferred from the brass to the die??

    Curious to see what your thoughts are.

    Thanks

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    Over time there can be a buildup of lube in your die. I use RCBS dies and am unfamiliar with the Redding dies. With the RCBS dies, I can just unscrew the decapping pin and use a q-tip to clean out the die body and then wipe off the decapping pin. If you still have the instructions on how to properly set up the die, I'd just take it apart how ever it does come apart and then resetup the die per instructions. If you ever start to dent cases as you resize them then it is past time to clean out your dies.

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    I clean my dies once a year by disassembling, spraying the die body internal surface with brake cleaner and wiping all internal parts with denatured alcohol. They are never in bad shape but I also don't ever run dirty brass through any of my loading dies. If I am decapping dirty brass, I use an RCBS Universal Decapping die; never through my full-size or neck-sizing dies.

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    I rarely use a full length sizing die. Once I have fired my brass in the rifle that the load was intended for, I only neck size the brass from that point on, which I use no lube on. FL sizing stretches the brass and will cause cracks to form at the base where the brass gets thick. No one I know recommends FL sizing once the brass has been fired in a particular rifle. If you change guns or get a bunch of brass that you have never fired, then FL sizing is needed. Every rifles chamber is slightly different because of machining tolerances. Continued FL sizing is only asking for problems with seperated brass.

    Whenever I do clean my dies, I use alcohol or brake cleaner after disassembly.
    Colorado Cowboy
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    I clean my dies with Hoppe's #9 because it also protects the inside of the die from rust. I clean as soon as I notice any denting on the shoulders. Full length resizing will not lead to premature case head separation, but excessive resizing can. Set your die up properly with a minimum amount of shoulder set back and you will be fine. I full lenght size all my hunting ammo to make sure it will chamber easily while hunting. While hunting I carry my rifle with a loaded magazine, empty chamber. When getting ready to make the shot, the last thing I need to deal with is a round that is hard to chamber.

    Jason Moeller

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    I am sorry but I disagree with you on full length sizing. My father had the same opinion as you and we had to deal with separated cases stuck in his chamber when the head pulled off....several times. I inspected his full length sized ammo and found several cases that had cracks in them. His dies were set up and adjusted correctly...I set them up. Thats why they make neck size dies. With a neck sizer you don't need any case lube so the die never gets any lube buildup.

    As far as chambering goes, if you only use brass that has been shot in your own rifle, you will never have a problem chambering. I have a 25-06 that I have had since 1977 and have around 500 pieces of brass. I havn't used my F/L sizer in years and have never had a problem with case separation or difficulty in chambering and closing the bolt. Same with my .300Wby, .220 Ackley Improved Swift and .243. If you are having problems closing the bolt and you have F/L sized the brass, you should pull the bullet and check the OAL of the case. If it is too long then it needs to be trimmed. The extra brass is from near the base...where it would eventually crack. If you are shooting max or really hot loads and you get the bolt closing problem and the case is too long, then the extra brass is usually from the neck because of high pressures. Usually the neck splits after reloading these hot loads a few times. Over the years I had all of these happen.

    There is a disclaimer that I want to make...I only shoot bolt actions. Neck sizing probably should not be used in levers, slide action and semi autos. I would only F/L size the brass for them and inspect it very closely. These non-bolt actions really don't handle brass that is on the large end of the tolerance band very well.

    I have been reloading for 55 years....just sayin
    Last edited by Colorado Cowboy; 01-08-2014 at 03:37 PM.
    Colorado Cowboy
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    No problem here Colorado Cowboy. Nothing wrong with a civil disagreement/discussion. I have only been reloading for 17 years so I still have some stuff to learn. I used to neck size only and now I full length size everything. I cut my teeth shooting NRA Highpower and Long range competitions out to 1000 yds, ammo that doesn't chamber is a mental distraction I can't afford to have, it costs me points in a match. Properly set up full length dies will only push the shoulder back approx .002 inches. You are correct, brass does flow forward, and case length should be checked on every loading. If someone is having problems with case separation they are either over sizing the cases or keeping them past their useful life. Brass cases are a disposable commidity. You and I are probably not going to change each others mind. I am just trying to show a different point of view to anyone learning to reload.
    Good discussion here.

    Jason Moeller

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  9. #8
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    Hey CC! You're like I am---older than dirt, LOL!!!

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    I have to agree with C.C. I do full length size any new brass but after that I neck size anything that goes back into the same bolt action rifle. I've only been doing it for 40 years though, so I'm a relative newbie.

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    Guys, Thanks for all the replies. Great info.

 

 

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