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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colorado Cowboy View Post
    Another question...what Wby action do you have.
    CC, yes it's the elevation. I'm not sure on the action, bought it about 4-5 years ago.
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  2. #52
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    Ii probably is a MK V , BUT early on Wby used a number of different actions. I've seen commercial Mausers and Winchesters. Mine is an early commercial Mauser. The reason I asked is that it is really easy to get the wrong bases.

    If you end up shimming, I would use stainless steel shim material and make the shim fit between the base and receiver. The mounting holes in the base should match up with holes in the shim, that way the shim will stay in place.
    Last edited by Colorado Cowboy; 04-13-2014 at 02:18 PM.
    Colorado Cowboy
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muleys 24/7 View Post
    CC, yes it's the elevation. I'm not sure on the action, bought it about 4-5 years ago.
    One of the problems generated by the trend to using high magnification scopes is the higher the magnification, the less adjustment in the scope. You mentioned that you had Talley rings and bases. That is who I would contact before launching into an expensive custom project. You may need a base (front or rear) that is a little thicker/thinner than normal. Normally, I would suggest a shim inside the ring, but with the vertical split Talley rings, that will not work. I have had no trouble with the Talley rings and bases on my .358 Win. pistol. They make a fine product, and I have found them to be very helpful at the SHOT Show. Give them a try.

    Another alternative, if the Talley route does not work, would be to contact Weatherby. Some years ago, one of the big name gun makers released a batch of rifles, in which the machining was off slightly. This caused an unbelievable amount of problems with scope mounting, I would be surprised if this was the case with a Mark V, but you never know.
    Last edited by Sawfish; 04-15-2014 at 07:50 AM.
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  4. #54
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    Hey bro, try putting a different scope on it first. I had the same problem with my .22 mag rifle and fixed it by putting a different scope on it. I can take off a scope from a rifle I don't shoot often which is a bunch, and see if it works on your rifle. That way you'll just need to send your scope in or get another one. Don't put in any shims, you've been there and done that.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muleys 24/7 View Post
    The elevation knob on scope is maxed out upward, with reticle on the bull's-eye of target, the gun is still shooting 3 1/2 feet high.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Turning the elevation knob up raises the point of impact, turn it down to lower the point of impact, ie. if you are shooting high you should be adjusting the scope down not up.

    Bob

  6. #56
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    I put another scope on tonight and it is the same scenario. I drilled holes in the shim to allow the screws for the base to pass through them and put the Shim under the rear base. after putting it back on the boresight everything appears to be zeroed now. Off to the range in the morning.


    BobT, your right, it was maxed out down.
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muleys 24/7 View Post
    I put another scope on tonight and it is the same scenario. I drilled holes in the shim to allow the screws for the base to pass through them and put the Shim under the rear base. after putting it back on the boresight everything appears to be zeroed now. Off to the range in the morning.


    BobT, your right, it was maxed out down.
    If you still don't get enough correction, don't be afraid to double the shim thickness. Trial and error time now. Hope everything works for you.
    Colorado Cowboy
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  8. #58
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    Went to the range this morning , still shooting high. Not as bad, but still I need to shim a little more and then lap.

    I've heard of using cut strips of soda or beer cans for shims. What do you guys use?
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  9. #59
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    I always used stainless steel aircraft shim material. You probably can't get it, but the thin aluminum strips cut from cans will do. How thick is the material that you have already used. If you have a micrometer measure it. How much high is it still shooting and how much improvement have you gotten. If I have some numbers, I can probably tell you how much more you need.

    Easiest way to do it is put a bore scope on it and start adding shim material until the scope's cross hairs line up with the cross hairs in the bore scope.
    Last edited by Colorado Cowboy; 04-19-2014 at 03:09 PM.
    Colorado Cowboy
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  11. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muleys 24/7 View Post
    Went to the range this morning , still shooting high. Not as bad, but still I need to shim a little more and then lap. I've heard of using cut strips of soda or beer cans for shims. What do you guys use?
    I used a pop top inside the ring on my old 30/06 for years. For the past few years, I have been using the wide Dymo label tape inside the rings. It has adhesive on one side, so it won't slip. You can stack a couple of thicknesses if necessary, and it will not mar the finish on the scope. Sort of a poor man's Signature ring. If you need to shim under the base, you can use the metal strips, but a better choice is actual gunsmithing shims. These come in blue, or stainless, and in different sizes and thicknesses. They also have holes for the base screws, so they won't slip. Available from Brownell's Gunsmithing Supply.
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