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  1. #31
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    I would recommend going to the RCBS website. There is some good general info there for people new to reloading. Also, I would pick up more that just one (Lyman) manual. There is some good info in the Nosler Manual. Read as much as you can to get a good working knowledge of the process and what each step is working to accomplish.

    Also, I would recommend getting a Hornady Lock n Load headspace measurement kit along with a Hornady Bullet compararor. Also you will need a caliper. This will allow you to know the critical measurements of your brass and your loaded cartridges, rather than guessing. It is a good idea to know the measurement of your fired brass from the base to the datum line on the shoulder after firing. This measurement may grow between the first and second and third firing in your rifle.
    Also, knowing how far your seated bullet is from making contact with the rifling is a very critical factor in optimizing accuracy for a given load. The bullet comparator is useful in this measurement.

    The brass sizing that has worked for me is: I use the Redding Competition Shell Holders with a full length sizing die. These shell holders allow me to bump the shoulder back to allow .002-.003 headspace, on every piece of brass. This also helps with not overworking the brass. These shellholders have a higher rim on them so that you can run the ram up to make positive contact with the sizing die.

    Good Luck

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaHunter View Post
    I would recommend going to the RCBS website. There is some good general info there for people new to reloading. Also, I would pick up more that just one (Lyman) manual. There is some good info in the Nosler Manual. Read as much as you can to get a good working knowledge of the process and what each step is working to accomplish.

    Also, I would recommend getting a Hornady Lock n Load headspace measurement kit along with a Hornady Bullet compararor. Also you will need a caliper. This will allow you to know the critical measurements of your brass and your loaded cartridges, rather than guessing. It is a good idea to know the measurement of your fired brass from the base to the datum line on the shoulder after firing. This measurement may grow between the first and second and third firing in your rifle.
    Also, knowing how far your seated bullet is from making contact with the rifling is a very critical factor in optimizing accuracy for a given load. The bullet comparator is useful in this measurement.

    The brass sizing that has worked for me is: I use the Redding Competition Shell Holders with a full length sizing die. These shell holders allow me to bump the shoulder back to allow .002-.003 headspace, on every piece of brass. This also helps with not overworking the brass. These shellholders have a higher rim on them so that you can run the ram up to make positive contact with the sizing die.

    Good Luck
    Great advice. I have found RCBS to be very helpful with problems encountered while reloading. I use their products almost exclusively (and have for 30 or more years).
    Colorado Cowboy
    Cowboy Action Shooter; Endowment Life Member-NRA
    The Original Rocket Scientist-Retired
    "My Father always considered a walk in the mountains as the equivalent of church going."
    Aldous Huxley

  4. #33
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    I have the Hornady reloading manual as well and am looking to get the nosler one too as I use their bullets a lot. I also have a caliper.
    Thanks for all the help.

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerm8352 View Post
    I have the Hornady reloading manual as well and am looking to get the nosler one too as I use their bullets a lot. I also have a caliper.
    Thanks for all the help.
    Its pretty important to keep up with a new manual or 2 every couple of years as they keep refining powders and bringing out new ones.
    Colorado Cowboy
    Cowboy Action Shooter; Endowment Life Member-NRA
    The Original Rocket Scientist-Retired
    "My Father always considered a walk in the mountains as the equivalent of church going."
    Aldous Huxley

  6. #35
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    This happened to me once. Trim length was perfect. Bullet seating was perfect. All rounds were the same. Doubled checked all measurements. First few rounds chambered perfectly fine and then suddenly the next four would not chamber. WTH!! This was my last trip to the range prior to my hunt. Here's what happened during the reloading process: measuring H4350, double checked powder weight, put the powder in the casing, placed the bullet into the neck and I gave the bullet a little EXTRA push into the neck, don't know why I did this because normally I gently set the bullet in the neck until I seat the bullet. Anyhow, I finished seating the bullets the next morning. I realized when I pushed the bullet into the neck, with the little extra push, it created a subtle bulge right at the neck which prevented the round from chambering. Lesson learned.

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mule3006Elk View Post
    This happened to me once. Trim length was perfect. Bullet seating was perfect. All rounds were the same. Doubled checked all measurements. First few rounds chambered perfectly fine and then suddenly the next four would not chamber. WTH!! This was my last trip to the range prior to my hunt. Here's what happened during the reloading process: measuring H4350, double checked powder weight, put the powder in the casing, placed the bullet into the neck and I gave the bullet a little EXTRA push into the neck, don't know why I did this because normally I gently set the bullet in the neck until I seat the bullet. Anyhow, I finished seating the bullets the next morning. I realized when I pushed the bullet into the neck, with the little extra push, it created a subtle bulge right at the neck which prevented the round from chambering. Lesson learned.
    That's exactly why I chamber EVERY one of my reloaded hunting rounds right after I have finished reloading them. Don't want any problems in the field later. I try to do the same with all my competition loads too. Two thing I've found to be critical with my .45 Colt loads is OAL and primer seating. Last weekend in a CAS (Cowboy Action Shoot) I had 2 rounds with high primers in my pistol rounds. Found them at the loading table. I usually spin the cylinder after I loaded it so I can make sure there are no high primers. Found them and saved myself trouble during the stage. OAL is critical in my 73 Winchester lever action, as rounds that are too long will not cycle and hang up the carrier. I measure them all in a go/no go guage after I load them.

    Even after reloading literally 1,000's of rounds in 60 years of reloading, I can still get careless and make a mistake. Check, recheck and check again!!!
    Colorado Cowboy
    Cowboy Action Shooter; Endowment Life Member-NRA
    The Original Rocket Scientist-Retired
    "My Father always considered a walk in the mountains as the equivalent of church going."
    Aldous Huxley

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  9. #37
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    [QUOTE=Colorado Cowboy;97032]That's exactly why I chamber EVERY one of my reloaded hunting rounds right after I have finished reloading them. GREAT PIECE OF ADVISE!!

  10. #38
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    [QUOTE=Mule3006Elk;97056]
    Quote Originally Posted by Colorado Cowboy View Post
    That's exactly why I chamber EVERY one of my reloaded hunting rounds right after I have finished reloading them. GREAT PIECE OF ADVISE!!
    I've also done that ever since I started reloading!

  11. #39
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    Thanks for all the help. This is a hard thing to start, but very rewarding!

 

 

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