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  1. #1
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    Proof that broadhead tunning works.

    I didnt take before pictures. The first picture is 20 yards, after some adjustment. The second one is 40 yards, after some more adjustment. The third shot is what happens when your arrow finds the soft spot. Got to love FMJ, and Montec 100's.

    The blue nocks are fieldpoints, and the green are broadheads.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    It's amazing what a little effort in tuning a bow, and your arrows can produce. Now your confidence level is up, knowing that your broad head is going where you are aiming, and that can make all the difference in the world. Great job! and thanks for sharing the pics.
    Shoot STR8

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    I am truly amazed and frustrated at the amount of people who hunt without proper bow and broadhead tuning. I used to hear "well had to move my sights up 2 inches and over 4 inches but now my BH's are hitting where they should". Now I hear " well the reason I use mechanicals is because they fly just like my fieldpoint" ..I used to say " you know, its not that hard to tune ur bow/BH...here let me show you.. Usually the response is ohh thanks, but I really dont have the time or patience to do that". grrr..lol..Now I shake my head and think to myself " God help the critter that crosses this guys path..

    Fact is; you guys are exactly right. The effort put into proper tuning is well worth the benefits. We as hunters take pride in good working equipment and at very least owe to the animals we hunt. Great work firearrow and yes proper tuning makes all the difference in the world.

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    I know this is gonna sound dumb, but what do you mean when you say "tune your bow"? I am seriously just starting out in archery(bought my first bow this spring) and have heard that phrase a lot, but really dont know what it means.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by huskyhunter View Post
    I know this is gonna sound dumb, but what do you mean when you say "tune your bow"? I am seriously just starting out in archery(bought my first bow this spring) and have heard that phrase a lot, but really dont know what it means.
    Tuning can mean a lot of different things. It can mean paper tuning, bare shaft tuning, "Timing Your Cams" for a two cam bow/ cam and a half, or broadhead tuning.

    Go to a good proshop that has hunters in it, that shoot fix bladed broadheads, and they can start you in the right direction. If not I can walk you through it.

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    Funny you post this as it is something I battle a lot

    ....I hear from many people on forums that it CAN be done. However when I talk to State Archer's in CA (top archers in their class) they say it CANNOT be done. You can maybe get close, but it just is not possible with ALL FB BH. I have heard that the Montecs are the closest, but I would be curious to see if you pulled out a Muzzy or Slick and than see if at 40 your groups are consistantly that tight.

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    JNDEER...Not all broadheads will have the same POI as your fieldpoints. However, with a properly tuned bow,tuned arrow,and good form, most quality fixed heads will have the same POI as your fieldpoints. I've tested montecs,strykers,tloc-shuttle,muzzys,sonics, and slicktricks(which i always have in my quiver). Everyone of them have had the exact POI out to at least 40 yards. Slicks and strykers both fly true to roughly 55yrds. At 60 I notice a slight drop from my field points. I'm not here to discredit anyone but will say with certanty that whoever says it cant be done is just plain wrong.

    HUSKYHUNTER: Properly tuning a bow an arrow is process. If you are interested I'm happy to give my tips as well as offer some other websites. If you google "bow tuning" there is a whole bunch of good information out there. Best advice I can give is Dont get frustrated.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elkcrazedfrk View Post
    JNDEER...Not all broadheads will have the same POI as your fieldpoints. However, with a properly tuned bow,tuned arrow,and good form, most quality fixed heads will have the same POI as your fieldpoints. I've tested montecs,strykers,tloc-shuttle,muzzys,sonics, and slicktricks(which i always have in my quiver). Everyone of them have had the exact POI out to at least 40 yards. Slicks and strykers both fly true to roughly 55yrds. At 60 I notice a slight drop from my field points. I'm not here to discredit anyone but will say with certanty that whoever says it cant be done is just plain wrong. .
    I read and read that it is possible, however I have yet to accomplish it with two bow set ups. Maybe it is just me, I can't honestly say. It is my uncle and cousin who are top shooters here in CA and tell me that it just can't be done. I am able to dial in my bow for FP good out to 70 than re-dial in my bow for BH (slicks) and get it good out to 70. I guess for those that can it just makes things easier, but I always assumed that if anything was wrong with my set ups, I couldn't consistantly keep decent groups with BH out to 70.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNDEER View Post
    I read and read that it is possible, however I have yet to accomplish it with two bow set ups. Maybe it is just me, I can't honestly say. It is my uncle and cousin who are top shooters here in CA and tell me that it just can't be done. I am able to dial in my bow for FP good out to 70 than re-dial in my bow for BH (slicks) and get it good out to 70. I guess for those that can it just makes things easier, but I always assumed that if anything was wrong with my set ups, I couldn't consistantly keep decent groups with BH out to 70.
    I know I should not say this, but why would you shoot and animal with a bow at 70 yards. I am all in for practicingat further distances with BH to make us all more efficent at 30, 40, maybe 50 yards. But lets be honust. We dont have Palm Pilots that have balistic info for archery, like the 1000 yard rifle club. Archery is about a Bull blowing his head off 30 yards away from you, where your heart is pounding out of your chest, and you are having a seizure. Or stalking into a mulies bed from above at 35 yards. Just becasue a buck is at 72 yards, and you shoot that far, doesn't mean you should shoot it. I know when the buck is there, and you get the adriniline rush to shoot, shoot, shoot. We all need to stop for a second and think, can I really make this shot. Other than, well lets send it and see what happens. I am not treehugger, but we need to respect the animals we hunt, and in doing so, we then have respect for our sleves. JMO.

  10. #10
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    Yup what Elkcrazedfrk said.

    Umm JNDEER. One question. How much leather have these guys from State Archer's worn off there boot, above treeline, and not in a ground blind sitting on some private property in Mendocino County. I mean no disrespect, other than I work in several archery shops over the years, and there is a big difference between a good 3-D shooter, and a hunter. A top 3-D shooter is more appt to set his bow up like is compotition rig, as I once did before I saw the light. Short axel to axel, light arrows, = broadheads all over the place. Unless you are Randy Ulner, and have flaw less form.

    It all starts with a bow that fits you properly, and a bow ment for hunting, not compotion. Longer axel to axel, longer brace heigth, more passive draw curve, and the correct draw length is a must. Your bow needs to be shot in, the sting and cables streched in. Once that is done your bow needs to be timed, and the center shot set. Small adjustment to the timing, nock point, and bow poundage will bring most quality built BH in order, as long as your arrow is the correct one for your bow.

    Arrow selection. I really wish people would stop worring about FPS, and KE, and all that BS. Arrows should be fitted to the bow, and the one shooting it. Not by how fast it will go. When shooting a carbon arrow for hunting it is always better to shoot a heavier spined arrow, than a lighter spined arrow. BH's fly better, or are more forgiving when properly seated onto a heavier spined arrow, than a weaker spined arrow. Dont worry about FOC, GPI, or any other abreviations. The biggest thing about arrows and broadheads is, wait for it, wait for it, how well the BH seats onto the arrow, and the spine. If the BH seats tru onto the arrow, then the arrow with the BH on it will spin tru, on you finger is the best way to feel a wobble. You may have to try seating different BH onto different arrow before you get one that spins tru. Or you may need to get one of the G5's arrow truing tools. I know that is not the name, but look at there web sight and you will see what I mean. It squares up the business end of the arrow.

    I know I have been rambling on, but long story shot. If your bow fits you correctly, and your arrows fit the bow correctly, and the BH fit the arrows correctly, then yes BH tuning works. I have been doing this since 1997. If anyone needs help with this drop me a line and I can help. Or if there is a big enough call for it, maybe I sould figure out how to do a Youtube thing, so that way everyone can see how it happens.

    One thing is for sure. You have to have a bow press, be will, and patient to adjust your timing, poundage, nock point.

 

 

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